Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Brasserie Pavil

Imagine for a second that Grand Central Station was dropped in the middle of Paris in 1907. Not literally, as it would crush thousands of Parisians and cause immense damage to New York’s transit system. I mean figuratively…

Are you picturing it?

The men are wearing sleeve garters and enormous decorative clocks are used equally for their form and function. The space is open and light subtly emanates from every surface.

Still with me?

Now shrink the scale so it fits in a suburban development and imagine everything is cleaner and crisper than the technology of 1907 would allow. Now you’ve got my take on Brasserie Pavil.

While waiting at the bar for the rest of the party, I found myself amused with the uniforms of the bar staff. I was particularly baffled by an elastic strap connecting the bartender’s upper shirt sleeve to ….his lower shirt sleeve. Very odd. I’ll buy a drink for anyone who can properly name this peculiar accessory.


The bartender was very professional, making polite sage comments much the way you would expect from an old western saloon. Not to be completely anachronistic, he also reminded us of their regular happy hour and extended evening hours. We are still in suburbia after all.

As the rest of our group arrived, we started with Gruyere Fondue as an appetizer for the table. The cheese was strong but after the initial shock I found it to be interesting and tasty. The bread was intentionally a bit stale (I suppose to keep it from getting soggy as it was dipped in the cheese) and it sat heavily in my stomach after just a couple of cheesy skewers.


Both Mey and I went for the Friday dinner special of Bouillabaisse – a fish stew with lobster, mussels and scallops. My mouth drips with saliva just from typing the ingredients. It also looked great, but the flavor didn’t quite live up to the hype. The stew itself was salty and incorporated the fish’s flavor, but was overall a forgettable liquid. The mussels and scallops were okay (a tad overdone), but the sauce didn’t bring the flavor alive as it should. What resulted was more of a collection of mildly overcooked crustaceans obscured by broth.


A word on the service - top notch. That’s two words, but you get the idea. I was impressed, especially for a restaurant of this size. Making a reservation on Friday afternoon was not a problem and was warmly received. The bartender was polite, prompt and friendly. The waitress knew the menu and was able to make knowledgeable suggestions. The only misstep occurred when she walked off with half a glass of my chardonnay thereby giving me a facial expression generally reserved for children who recently discovered Santa’s identity. Thankfully she returned and apologized so I could continue to get my drink on.

We ordered an expensive appetizer ($20 fondue), but the total damage was higher than I would’ve liked. Despite the excellent service, a bill of $120 will likely keep Brasserie Pavil out of our regular rotation.

The following day the hostess called to ensure that we had a good evening and to wish us an expeditious return.

She must think I’m sexy.

Either that or it pays to take pictures of your food.

Food: 3
Ambiance: 3.5
Service: 4.5
Value: 2.5

Overall:

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Is her closet full of muted earth tones of brown, black, and white? Does she own an antique mirror and look at passionate people with envious disdain? Bring her here.
Then buy her a red dress. Everyone should have a red dress.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Mela Indian Bar and Grill

If you like a chef’s food then it makes sense that you have the same taste, right? I really like the food prepared by Andrew Weisman at Le Rêve, therefore it would make sense that he (like me) enjoys the following things:
Perhaps there is a flaw in my logic, but it’s what led me to try Mela Indian Bar & Grill after reading about it in this article.

The first thing that struck me was how nicely the interior of the building was decorated. Admittedly I wasn’t expecting much, but the light from the intricate glass chandeliers gave a soft glow to the granite bar and the sturdy wooden furniture.


While waiting for a table we chatted up the friendly bartender who offered a few suggestions of his personal favorite menu items. After we were seated our table started with an assortment of appetizers including the Tandoori Mixed Grill (as recommended), the Mixed Appetizers for Two, and some Naan. These were a good source of variety as most were great and none were bad. I probably wouldn’t go for the Mixed Grill again unless you were planning on splitting it with 4 people, as it is larger than many entrees on the menu (and equally as expensive).


One thing that’s worth noting – the portion sizes seem deceptively small on first inspection, but there was always more than enough food to fill you up. This was especially true for my main course of Tandoori Shrimp. The waiter took tedious care to ensure that I knew the shrimp were not served with a sauce. The exchange went about like this:

Me: I’d like the Tandoori Shrimp
Waiter: That’s served without any sauce – is that alright?
Me: That’s fine.
Waiter: Are you sure that you would like it without sauce?
Me: Is it a good dish?
Waiter: It doesn’t come with sauce.
Me: Ok.

I’m paraphrasing a bit, but I couldn’t quite tell if he was trying to steer me away from the shrimp or if it was simple miscommunication. The shrimp was ok, and everyone else at the table had the Chicken Tikka Masala which was served in a bowl with plenty of sauce.

Overall I would say the food was on par or slightly better than India Palace. That’s the problem. The bill was roughly three times what we would pay at India Palace, and while the ambiance was quieter and more extravagant I think I will rarely find myself craving Indian food in a formal setting. Maybe that’s just me.

As I left the restaurant I found myself questioning my theorem. Is it possible that I can like a chef’s food but not share the same taste in other areas? Maybe the big boss from Le Rêve loves SUVs, hates public radio, and dislikes tall buildings.

We’ll never know for sure, but I’ll choose to believe that Andrew Weisman still chuckles while watching a twelve-year-old misspell “prosopopoeia”.



Food: 3.5 Cuy
Ambiance: 4 Cuy
Service: 3 Cuy
Value: 3 Cuy



Overall:




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Are you dating a computer science graduate student who owns her own sari? Take her here for some upscale food from the motherland.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

SoGo

Do you remember when the economy was good? Way back in the day (circa 2006) a restaurant called Eclipse Café opened on the corner of Northwest Military and Huebner road. Times were good and this brightly-lit café was an ideal getaway for Shavano Park housewives to “lunch”. The food was fair, but a little pricey for what it was. Since then three dozen banks have failed, the housewives lost some home equity and the space is now used by this place.

Now Eclipse Café has moved to the Stone Oak area under the new name SoGo and has fired the waitstaff in the conversion to a deli-style counter. What’s that you say? SoGo has no relation to Eclipse Café? Surely it must have at least the same busboy as Eclipse…but they don’t. One of the chefs is a high school friend of mine, and he hadn’t even heard of Eclipse.

There are a few touches that differentiate the two. For example, SoGo is aimed more at the Stone-Oaker on the go, including meatloaf and pastrami by the pound and several side dishes.
I ordered some Red Snapper served over risotto with cooked spinach. The fish was covered with a very nice cream sauce and it all combined very well, with the minor criticism of slightly over-salty spinach. Mey’s strawberry salad was decent (the orange bread was squishy and unusual, but in a good way), and I’ll admit that my sweet tooth stole most of her carrot cake.

We sat at the window against a bar in contemporary barstools while facing a massive church, but not because the atmosphere is something to be avoided. The chef told me that they were shooting for a “contemporary general-store feel” which just about covers it. I really dig the furniture, with the dining area looking like a page in a West Elm catalog.

I must say that I regret ordering one of the pricier items on the blackboard. Not that it wasn’t good, but for that kind of coin the lunchtime competition includes seated restaurants like Tre Trattoria. We coughed up about half a Benjamin for lunch including a glass of chardonnay, coffee and a slice of cake. Stick to the sandwiches and you can get out for closer to half that amount.

The couple sitting to my right ordered a pair of spectacular sandwiches, leaving me with something to try for next time. I suspect the sandwiches are SoGo’s forte, so I’ll be back for more.

Service: N/A (Deli Counter)
Ambiance: 4 Cuy
Food: 3.5 Cuy
Value: 3 Cuy

Overall:



Is your date so ugly that you don't want to be seen in public? Get some takeout from this place and take it back to your bachelor pad. I really hope (for your sake) that she has a good personality....

Monday, February 2, 2009

Turquoise Grill

Turquoise Grill seems like an odd name for a restaurant. My mind (and google) immediately conjures up an image like this:

Thankfully their website gives a better explanation: “Turquoise comes from Old French for Turkish”. I learned something new today.

If you are a sandal-wearing, world music lover who boasts about not owning a television then you likely already know what Turkish food is.

Perhaps you are well-traveled Italian and have already encountered Anatolian cuisine in your pursuit for a better trade route to China.

I’m neither of those guys, so it was new to me.

As we walk into the dining room the sitar is pumping over the speakers loudly enough to make me think that I forgot to pay a cover charge. It turns out the reason for the loud, rhythmic tune was that Turquoise Grill brings in a belly dancer to perform on Friday evenings.

It was an odd thing to watch. On one hand it was a brilliant technical display with intricate motions seemingly impossible to anyone with a normal human skeleton. Truly fascinating. On the other hand I was acutely aware that I was essentially watching a scantily clad exotic dancer while sitting next to my wife. Awkward….

A couple of songs later and the show was over, allowing us to carry on a conversation without shouting. The bread was a great start to the meal and when the waitress came by to get our drink order, I felt daring enough to try something called Ayran. The description listed on the menu said “cold yogurt drink” which was brutally accurate. Imagine throwing half a pound of plain yogurt in a blender along with a tiny drop of milk to liquefy the mixture. Every time I took a sip the yogurt would leave a ring of residue around the glass like an old oak tree showing its age. There were many shallow rings on my goblet before I switched to water.* I can’t say that it wasn’t interesting, since it did complement the flavors of the food surprisingly well.

Which isn’t to say the food was bad at all. Quite the contrary. Mey ordered the Doner Kebab and I went with the Lamb Shank a la Turca which were both very good. My dish looked spectacular with the blunt-looking lamb covered with the delicate flavor of an eggplant. If you look back to my review of Shiraz, you’ll find that I ordered a similar entree which was done a little better – albeit at a higher price – at the Olmos Park establishment.

Mey’s dish didn’t look as spectacular, but the flavor of the slow-grilled beef and lamb was phenomenal. It tasted a bit like gyro meat, but juicier.

We sampled some rice pudding and baklava for dessert, but the main course filled me up so that I couldn’t properly appreciate the flaky pastry or the complex pudding. Both were good complements to the after-dinner reappearance of the jolly tambourine-playing owner and the belly dancer.

Ambiance: 3 Cuy (4 Cuy on Friday nights)
Service: 2.5 Cuy
Food: 4 Cuy
Value: 4 Cuy

Overall:

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Dating a down-to-earth girl who can look past the shady shopping center? Bring her here - but not on a Friday.

*But not their fault – I’m just not a fan.