La Fonda on Main

San Antonio is a wonderful place.

In a city replete with Mexican restaurants one can’t help but to compare them to one another. And as with all facets of capitalism, competition should better the breed.

So why has La Fonda on Main not been replaced by a Taqueria Jalisco #873 in the past 70 years?

I think it’s the same reason that monkeys are still around: evolution leaves some amusing stragglers.

This restaurant is housed in a beautiful Spanish building from the 1930’s erected in the architecturally grandiose neighborhood of Monte Vista. I’ve always been a sucker for Spanish architecture, but with every new McMansion these days looking like a Macaroni Grill, it’s nice to see a more vintage example. The courtyard looked like a great place to relax with a margarita, and although we were seated inside in a corner the ambiance was still pleasant and casual.

We were greeted by a nice hostess who made me imagine what Frida Kahlo would look like if she were still alive. I ordered a Cuba Libre (aka Rum & Coke) which didn’t have enough alcohol in it to liberate a conservative like me, much less the nation of Cuba.

Next up was an appetizer of Queso Fundido con Hongos y Chorizo (Melted Cheese with Mushrooms and Sausage). The queso was very good and had a thick, stringy consistency which required creativity to keep from losing chips inside the dip. All in all, it was a worthwhile endeavor for a mushroom lover like me.

I went with the Redfish Veracruzana for the main course, which at $14 seemed a tad overpriced for what I got. The flavor from the olives overwhelmed (rather than complemented) the fish, and the plate was mediocre. Mey had the Shrimp a la Plancha and confirmed the unexceptional quality.

The service was standard and matter-of-fact, and it seemed like the waitstaff was spread thinly enough that pleasantries were superfluous. I can’t really blame the waitress for that on a busy Friday night, but I feel there’s room for improvement.

Mey ordered tres leches for dessert, and we both had some coffee. The dessert looked great. But looks can be deceiving, and it was as uninspired as the main course.

So back to my original question – Why hasn’t this place been replaced with Taqueria Jalisco #1086? *Note that 213 more have been built since you started reading this review.

Well, it’s a beautiful restaurant in a great neighborhood teeming with history. John Wayne and three American presidents once ate here….but not simultaneously. I can see why La Fonda has such a following in a traditional city like San Antonio. The food’s not terrible, and I am glad I gave it a shot.

Food: 2 Cuy
Service: 2.5 Cuy
Value: 2 Cuy
Ambiance: 3.5 Cuy

Overall:

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Are you dating someone who:
a) doesn’t live in San Antonio and
b) hasn’t tried much Mexican food and
c) is a big fan of John Wayne or Dwight Eisenhower?
Then bring her here! Otherwise Paloma Blanca is right around the corner.