Saturday, March 21, 2009

Uchi

Imagine if Gisele were a filthy homeless bag lady.

She’s won the genetic lottery and probably exercises twenty hours a day, but without makeup and a miniskirt she’d just be an abnormally tall vagrant pushing a lopsided grocery cart.

It would be difficult to watch. You’d probably want to yell something like “Take a shower and get on the runway!”

Uchi evokes the same frustration.

The food was phenomenal. The head chef must be quite gifted to create dishes that combine flavors so unusual yet perfectly matched. Sautéed scallops with peaches? A tiny masterpiece.

We splurged and went with the Omakase, a ten course tasting dish for two and all ten courses were spectacular. Don’t ask me to name them all, as the pronunciation alone would have my tongue in knots, but the $200 cost that initially had me speechless was justified by the quality of the food.
Another memorable favorite was the Wagyu ribeye, which was perfectly cooked and sliced down to chop-stick friendly pieces. Each bite had a brilliant oak flavor on the outside which transitioned to a wonderfully barbaric raw beef flavor in the middle.

Ohh…and the moonfish served on a brick of frozen salt turned out to be an intriguing way to play with the temperature and salinity of the dish while dining.

I could go on.

But by now you’re probably waiting for the other shoe to drop. Why the frustration?

Two reasons – ambiance and service.

Let’s start with the ambiance. I realize that everyone wants to “Keep Austin Weird”, but if that means not knowing when formality is required then I’d rather be normal. The dress code was non-existent with patrons wearing everything from suits to t-shirts. This lack of an attire preference leads to an identity crisis for the restaurant. Is it a hip sushi bar for UT students or a posh altar of fine dining? If you have a $200 tasting menu you should request jackets and be done with it.

It seems the restaurant decided to squeeze in as many tables as possible. Our booth was too cozy for my taste so I was inadvertently playing footsie all evening (sorry Joseph!). Claustrophobia set in around the fourth course.

Now on to the service. Our waiter’s understanding of the menu was quite impressive and he had an excellent knowledge of each dish. But each course came out at random time intervals, often times stacking on top of one another. I realize that this was likely a logistical problem with the kitchen, but I expect better from a restaurant with this caliber of food. There’s nothing worse than feeling rushed when you’re savoring the flavor of delicate Trout roe.

The check had some questionable issues (one of the ten courses was billed separately), and the overall quoted price of $200 for the Omakase was actually $214.

Rounding isn’t cool.

That sounds like a bad experience, but the food alone was worth the price of admission and they got more things right than wrong.

It’s just difficult to watch a supermodel digging through a dumpster without thinking “if only”. Hopefully the owner of Uchi will see the potential and put on some lipstick.

Food: 5 Cuy
Ambiance: 4 Cuy
Service: 3.5 Cuy
Value: 4 Cuy

Overall:
.
.
.
Are you dating an Austinite who believes that food shouldn’t be cooked above 115°F? You can bring her here if you’d like, but honestly I’d dump the pretentious girl and find someone who would appreciate the splendid food. Preferably someone with patience.

*By now you've probably noticed that the pictures don't match the text very well and seem to be of low quality. I took a picture of each course, but the lighting was very dim and many of the pictures look like an unrecognizable blob on a plate. So I used the ones that still look like food.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Brasserie Pavil

Imagine for a second that Grand Central Station was dropped in the middle of Paris in 1907. Not literally, as it would crush thousands of Parisians and cause immense damage to New York’s transit system. I mean figuratively…

Are you picturing it?

The men are wearing sleeve garters and enormous decorative clocks are used equally for their form and function. The space is open and light subtly emanates from every surface.

Still with me?

Now shrink the scale so it fits in a suburban development and imagine everything is cleaner and crisper than the technology of 1907 would allow. Now you’ve got my take on Brasserie Pavil.

While waiting at the bar for the rest of the party, I found myself amused with the uniforms of the bar staff. I was particularly baffled by an elastic strap connecting the bartender’s upper shirt sleeve to ….his lower shirt sleeve. Very odd. I’ll buy a drink for anyone who can properly name this peculiar accessory.


The bartender was very professional, making polite sage comments much the way you would expect from an old western saloon. Not to be completely anachronistic, he also reminded us of their regular happy hour and extended evening hours. We are still in suburbia after all.

As the rest of our group arrived, we started with Gruyere Fondue as an appetizer for the table. The cheese was strong but after the initial shock I found it to be interesting and tasty. The bread was intentionally a bit stale (I suppose to keep it from getting soggy as it was dipped in the cheese) and it sat heavily in my stomach after just a couple of cheesy skewers.


Both Mey and I went for the Friday dinner special of Bouillabaisse – a fish stew with lobster, mussels and scallops. My mouth drips with saliva just from typing the ingredients. It also looked great, but the flavor didn’t quite live up to the hype. The stew itself was salty and incorporated the fish’s flavor, but was overall a forgettable liquid. The mussels and scallops were okay (a tad overdone), but the sauce didn’t bring the flavor alive as it should. What resulted was more of a collection of mildly overcooked crustaceans obscured by broth.


A word on the service - top notch. That’s two words, but you get the idea. I was impressed, especially for a restaurant of this size. Making a reservation on Friday afternoon was not a problem and was warmly received. The bartender was polite, prompt and friendly. The waitress knew the menu and was able to make knowledgeable suggestions. The only misstep occurred when she walked off with half a glass of my chardonnay thereby giving me a facial expression generally reserved for children who recently discovered Santa’s identity. Thankfully she returned and apologized so I could continue to get my drink on.

We ordered an expensive appetizer ($20 fondue), but the total damage was higher than I would’ve liked. Despite the excellent service, a bill of $120 will likely keep Brasserie Pavil out of our regular rotation.

The following day the hostess called to ensure that we had a good evening and to wish us an expeditious return.

She must think I’m sexy.

Either that or it pays to take pictures of your food.

Food: 3
Ambiance: 3.5
Service: 4.5
Value: 2.5

Overall:

.
.
.
Is her closet full of muted earth tones of brown, black, and white? Does she own an antique mirror and look at passionate people with envious disdain? Bring her here.
Then buy her a red dress. Everyone should have a red dress.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Mela Indian Bar and Grill

If you like a chef’s food then it makes sense that you have the same taste, right? I really like the food prepared by Andrew Weisman at Le Rêve, therefore it would make sense that he (like me) enjoys the following things:
Perhaps there is a flaw in my logic, but it’s what led me to try Mela Indian Bar & Grill after reading about it in this article.

The first thing that struck me was how nicely the interior of the building was decorated. Admittedly I wasn’t expecting much, but the light from the intricate glass chandeliers gave a soft glow to the granite bar and the sturdy wooden furniture.


While waiting for a table we chatted up the friendly bartender who offered a few suggestions of his personal favorite menu items. After we were seated our table started with an assortment of appetizers including the Tandoori Mixed Grill (as recommended), the Mixed Appetizers for Two, and some Naan. These were a good source of variety as most were great and none were bad. I probably wouldn’t go for the Mixed Grill again unless you were planning on splitting it with 4 people, as it is larger than many entrees on the menu (and equally as expensive).


One thing that’s worth noting – the portion sizes seem deceptively small on first inspection, but there was always more than enough food to fill you up. This was especially true for my main course of Tandoori Shrimp. The waiter took tedious care to ensure that I knew the shrimp were not served with a sauce. The exchange went about like this:

Me: I’d like the Tandoori Shrimp
Waiter: That’s served without any sauce – is that alright?
Me: That’s fine.
Waiter: Are you sure that you would like it without sauce?
Me: Is it a good dish?
Waiter: It doesn’t come with sauce.
Me: Ok.

I’m paraphrasing a bit, but I couldn’t quite tell if he was trying to steer me away from the shrimp or if it was simple miscommunication. The shrimp was ok, and everyone else at the table had the Chicken Tikka Masala which was served in a bowl with plenty of sauce.

Overall I would say the food was on par or slightly better than India Palace. That’s the problem. The bill was roughly three times what we would pay at India Palace, and while the ambiance was quieter and more extravagant I think I will rarely find myself craving Indian food in a formal setting. Maybe that’s just me.

As I left the restaurant I found myself questioning my theorem. Is it possible that I can like a chef’s food but not share the same taste in other areas? Maybe the big boss from Le Rêve loves SUVs, hates public radio, and dislikes tall buildings.

We’ll never know for sure, but I’ll choose to believe that Andrew Weisman still chuckles while watching a twelve-year-old misspell “prosopopoeia”.



Food: 3.5 Cuy
Ambiance: 4 Cuy
Service: 3 Cuy
Value: 3 Cuy



Overall:




.
Are you dating a computer science graduate student who owns her own sari? Take her here for some upscale food from the motherland.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

SoGo

Do you remember when the economy was good? Way back in the day (circa 2006) a restaurant called Eclipse Café opened on the corner of Northwest Military and Huebner road. Times were good and this brightly-lit café was an ideal getaway for Shavano Park housewives to “lunch”. The food was fair, but a little pricey for what it was. Since then three dozen banks have failed, the housewives lost some home equity and the space is now used by this place.

Now Eclipse Café has moved to the Stone Oak area under the new name SoGo and has fired the waitstaff in the conversion to a deli-style counter. What’s that you say? SoGo has no relation to Eclipse Café? Surely it must have at least the same busboy as Eclipse…but they don’t. One of the chefs is a high school friend of mine, and he hadn’t even heard of Eclipse.

There are a few touches that differentiate the two. For example, SoGo is aimed more at the Stone-Oaker on the go, including meatloaf and pastrami by the pound and several side dishes.
I ordered some Red Snapper served over risotto with cooked spinach. The fish was covered with a very nice cream sauce and it all combined very well, with the minor criticism of slightly over-salty spinach. Mey’s strawberry salad was decent (the orange bread was squishy and unusual, but in a good way), and I’ll admit that my sweet tooth stole most of her carrot cake.

We sat at the window against a bar in contemporary barstools while facing a massive church, but not because the atmosphere is something to be avoided. The chef told me that they were shooting for a “contemporary general-store feel” which just about covers it. I really dig the furniture, with the dining area looking like a page in a West Elm catalog.

I must say that I regret ordering one of the pricier items on the blackboard. Not that it wasn’t good, but for that kind of coin the lunchtime competition includes seated restaurants like Tre Trattoria. We coughed up about half a Benjamin for lunch including a glass of chardonnay, coffee and a slice of cake. Stick to the sandwiches and you can get out for closer to half that amount.

The couple sitting to my right ordered a pair of spectacular sandwiches, leaving me with something to try for next time. I suspect the sandwiches are SoGo’s forte, so I’ll be back for more.

Service: N/A (Deli Counter)
Ambiance: 4 Cuy
Food: 3.5 Cuy
Value: 3 Cuy

Overall:



Is your date so ugly that you don't want to be seen in public? Get some takeout from this place and take it back to your bachelor pad. I really hope (for your sake) that she has a good personality....

Monday, February 2, 2009

Turquoise Grill

Turquoise Grill seems like an odd name for a restaurant. My mind (and google) immediately conjures up an image like this:

Thankfully their website gives a better explanation: “Turquoise comes from Old French for Turkish”. I learned something new today.

If you are a sandal-wearing, world music lover who boasts about not owning a television then you likely already know what Turkish food is.

Perhaps you are well-traveled Italian and have already encountered Anatolian cuisine in your pursuit for a better trade route to China.

I’m neither of those guys, so it was new to me.

As we walk into the dining room the sitar is pumping over the speakers loudly enough to make me think that I forgot to pay a cover charge. It turns out the reason for the loud, rhythmic tune was that Turquoise Grill brings in a belly dancer to perform on Friday evenings.

It was an odd thing to watch. On one hand it was a brilliant technical display with intricate motions seemingly impossible to anyone with a normal human skeleton. Truly fascinating. On the other hand I was acutely aware that I was essentially watching a scantily clad exotic dancer while sitting next to my wife. Awkward….

A couple of songs later and the show was over, allowing us to carry on a conversation without shouting. The bread was a great start to the meal and when the waitress came by to get our drink order, I felt daring enough to try something called Ayran. The description listed on the menu said “cold yogurt drink” which was brutally accurate. Imagine throwing half a pound of plain yogurt in a blender along with a tiny drop of milk to liquefy the mixture. Every time I took a sip the yogurt would leave a ring of residue around the glass like an old oak tree showing its age. There were many shallow rings on my goblet before I switched to water.* I can’t say that it wasn’t interesting, since it did complement the flavors of the food surprisingly well.

Which isn’t to say the food was bad at all. Quite the contrary. Mey ordered the Doner Kebab and I went with the Lamb Shank a la Turca which were both very good. My dish looked spectacular with the blunt-looking lamb covered with the delicate flavor of an eggplant. If you look back to my review of Shiraz, you’ll find that I ordered a similar entree which was done a little better – albeit at a higher price – at the Olmos Park establishment.

Mey’s dish didn’t look as spectacular, but the flavor of the slow-grilled beef and lamb was phenomenal. It tasted a bit like gyro meat, but juicier.

We sampled some rice pudding and baklava for dessert, but the main course filled me up so that I couldn’t properly appreciate the flaky pastry or the complex pudding. Both were good complements to the after-dinner reappearance of the jolly tambourine-playing owner and the belly dancer.

Ambiance: 3 Cuy (4 Cuy on Friday nights)
Service: 2.5 Cuy
Food: 4 Cuy
Value: 4 Cuy

Overall:

.
.
.
Dating a down-to-earth girl who can look past the shady shopping center? Bring her here - but not on a Friday.

*But not their fault – I’m just not a fan.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Mariposa - Neiman Marcus

Ok, so I broke the chain rule. For my dorky engineering friends I need to clarify; not this chain rule:

but rather the rule that I made to abstain from reviewing chain restaurants. Don’t expect a deluge of Olive Garden retrospectives, but rules are made to be broken - except for the actual chain rule, which I wouldn’t dare disparage. I’m such a bad boy.

What’s that you say? Bad boys don’t have brunch at Neiman Marcus?

You’ve got me. Maybe I need leather pants. On with the review.

Ever wish that you could eat Quiche and buy a $3,400 Marc Jacobs dress in the same building?

Want a salmon burger and a $3,500 Valentino Tote?

Got a craving for Chicken Tetrazzini and a $115 unremarkable Armani T-shirt?

Me neither.


But the food at Mariposa is pretty good, and the ambiance is great if you like open modern stuff (which I do). The San Antonio Current named Mariposa among their list of the “Best Places to Feel Like You’re Not in SA”, which I find to be an unusual honor for Neiman Marcus to place so prominently on their website. Perhaps I’m reading too much into it, but I take this as boasting the “Best Place to Escape the Proletariat”. This is certainly an odd distinction coming from a popular countercultural left-wing periodical like the Current.

The virtue in this assertion is that the service is a great value with the waiters including the small touches typically found at more expensive restaurants. It shows that they have experience catering to the whimsy of upscale clientele. In fact the next time I go I’ll probably wear something nicer than my Journey Concert Tee and torn Levi’s. Live and learn.*

Fortunately my attire didn’t stop them from placing a tasty shrimp bisque in the middle of the tasteful mid-century modern place setting.



It had all the characteristics that I look for in a good soup:

  • Proper temperature - check
  • Good consistency - check
  • Good flavor - check
We moved on to the main course (and special of the day) of shrimp quiche. The flavors lit up my senses with a euphoria typically relegated to substances smuggled across the border in an immigrant’s body cavity. I anticipated each bite with the trembling enthusiasm of a 15-year-old boy who has wormed his way into a topless bar.

Ok, not really.


The quiche looked every bit of it, but the flavor didn’t match the presentation. It wasn’t bad, as the crust and eggs were light and fluffy and the shrimp was a delicate complement rather than an overpowering theme. But if you were to detach yourself from the appetizing appearance, you would discover the quiche had as much passion as the Land Rover driving soccer moms that peppered the restaurant. And they appeared to be essentially ironing boards with tennis bracelets.

Would I go back solely for the food?

Probably not. But the ambiance is so serene and affluent that it’s easy to momentarily forget that you can’t afford the positively obscene diamond-encrusted crystal goblet thirty steps from your table in the “housewares for the rich and famous” department.
So go ahead and have that second espresso and appreciate Mariposa for what it is: a place to escape the “working class” for a little while - even if you happen to be one of them like me.
.
Food: 3 Cuy
Service: 4.5 Cuy
Ambiance: 4.5 Cuy
Value: 3 Cuy
.
Overall:
.
.
.
Are you dating someone who looks like the mannequins at Neiman Marcus and uses the word "Brunch" as a verb? Bring her here and bring your American Express, because Neiman Marcus doesn't accept Visa or MasterCard.
.
*Ok, so I wasn't actually wearing a Journey T-Shirt, but I did feel a little underdressed wearing an Old Navy long sleeve shirt.
.
Bonus points to whomever can differentiate the following equation using the chain rule:
f(x) = (x^2 + 1)^3

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Cafe Paladar

...is closing.  I'm on their email list and I received the following message yesterday:

Dear Friends,
I am writing this letter to let you know that after three years of labored restaurant love, Brian and I have decided to close our beautiful restaurant, Cafe Paladar.  The bad economy and increased number of new restaurants in our area took its toll on us this year and after a long hard fight, it is now time to let it go.  We are saddened but our spirit is not broken.  We trust God and know He must have better plans for us in the future.  I will return to flying full time with Southwest Airlines and Chef Brian will begin searching for an Executive Chef position here in San Antonio.  We would like to continue catering for those of you who have any type of special occasion coming up; so please keep us in mind.  Our Cafe Paladar website will continue to be online indefinately with information on how to get in touch with us.  We would like to give all of you our sincerest gratitude for your support and friendship.  We learned so much running this restaurant and had a blast doing so, but, the biggest blessing was meeting so many wonderful people.  We are leaving with an abundance of great memories due to you.  So many, that we can't imagine not opening another great restaurant again someday.  We are truly Americans with an entrepreneurial spirit!!  We love you, we'll miss you, and we hope to see again.  Thank you  and God bless.
 
Sincerely,
Chef Brian and Mary Esther West   
Owners of Cafe Paladar

Although I haven't blogged about this restaurant, I've dined there a couple of times and enjoyed the experience.  The food was varied and complex, although prices were a bit on the high side.  I distinctly remember the tasty bacon wrapped dates being an excellent choice of tapa.  I might have to swing by and grab a few more before the place shuts the doors for the last time.

If you want to give them a try before they kick the bucket, you can find the restaurant on the web at 


or just show up at

18322 Sonterra Place
Suite 103 San Antonio, TX 78258
Phone: 210.798.7200